Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
